Tag Archives: Records of Kolkata

INTERNATIONAL: FASHION : Meet Santanu Das, the Kolkata-based fashion designer who crafted Payal Kapadia’s Cannes 2024 outfit

Payal, who won the Grand Prix Award for her film All We Imagine As Light at Cannes, ordered her outfit for the festival from Santanu’s artisanal clothing brand Maku Textiles.

Filmmaker Payal Kapadia carried a piece of Kolkata with her when she walked onto the stage at Cannes 2024 to receive the Grand Prix Award for All We Imagine As Light on May 25. She was wearing an outfit that was exclusively crafted for her by Kolkata-based artisanal clothing brand Maku Textiles in less than a week.

The Telegraph Online recently caught up with Maku Textiles founder-director Santanu Das, an alumni of National Institute of Design, to know the thoughts and craftsmanship that went into Payal’s outfit.

The Telegraph Online: What was your first thought when you came to know that Payal Kapadia wore an outfit designed by you to receive her Grand Prix Award at the Cannes 2024?

Santanu Das: We are part of history now. It was a very special moment. We understood her achievement is going to live forever and with that we will also be attached to her. I wrote to Payal just after I got to know about her Cannes win. It’s wonderful.

Did you know Payal Kapadia before she ordered the outfit from you? How did she come to know about Maku Textiles?

Santanu Das: No, I didn’t know her before that. Maybe that’s because I am not very social and prefer to live in a cocoon.

I don’t know how her team got in touch with me. Things happened very fast. We had to finish the outfit and deliver it in less than a week. I had to send it to Mumbai, and the last person from her team travelling to Cannes hand-carried the outfit.

Could you decode Payal’s Cannes outfit for us.

Santanu Das: We had two pieces — a jacket and a sleeveless silk dress. She wore the jacket at the screening, but it was designed in such a way that you could see the dress from the front. While collecting the award, Payal wanted to open the jacket.

When we were talking about the outfit, Payal wanted something blue and I had something black — but not very black, black. Our signature colour is indigo, so we created a different tonality of black indigo. We also considered that it could be an emotional as well as a vulnerable moment for her and that’s why I wanted her to feel guarded in our design. We talked about how the design needs to be ironed and what earrings would go with it.

Did you speak to Payal to understand how she actually wanted to present herself on the big stage?

Santanu Das: Oh, yeah, we talked a couple of times. We had a long call where we discussed how to go about the styling. We tried to understand what she generally wears and what she would feel comfortable in as we didn’t want to impose anything on her. We were very aware that she is a film director. She is from the creative world, so anything she wears must match her personality.

You are into artisanal fashion. How do you elaborate on it?

Santanu Das: It’s a segment, which isn’t open and big. This specific segment has only a handful of people coming up with handmade signature designs but in a small batch. We do everything by our hand, making it part of a sustainable network. We mix our identity with the neutral cloth to add character to it.

Your label is made in Kolkata and was founded in 2012 but your focus has always been international…

Santanu Das: Our focus has always been on international sales and curation. We want to invest in developing new things. We are present in Japan, China, Taiwan, South Korea, the US, Europe, France, the UK, the Netherlands, Spain and Italy. Stores buy our clothes and then sell them.

In Kolkata, we have an atelier-cum-factory for people who are too keen to visit. We invite them by appointment. Our team comprises 60 people. We have 200 weavers from West Bengal, and our fabric is handwoven. We do everything such as fabrication, stitching and merchandising in Kolkata.

But some people love your work in India…

Santanu Das: I don’t know if anyone in Kolkata knows about Maku Textiles. A few people in Mumbai and Delhi know about us. More than actresses, we get filmmakers, cinematographers and art directors as clients. Anvita Dutt (creator of Bulbbul, Qala) has all my saris. Meenal Agarwal (production director), Konkona Sen Sharma, Tillotama Shome and Dia Mirza wear Maku Textiles. Anushka Sharma also visited our Kolkata studio while shooting for Pari. Both Anvita and Anushka came to know about us from Meenal.

source/content: telegraphindia.com (headline edited)

NATIONAL: HEALTH & MEDICAL SCIENCES: INNOVATION: IIT-Guwahati researchers develop solutions based on Regenerative Therapies for Knee Tears

IT-G has created three hydrogel formulations that are blends of silk fibroin and other polymers, which can be used by doctors in clinics, to treat the meniscus injury.

Researchers at the Indian Institute of Technology- (IIT) Guwahati, in collaboration with University of Animal and Fishery Sciences, Kolkata, has formulated three treatment solutions for a knee injury that has proven difficult to treat.

By developing these key regenerative therapies, the researchers have provided possible alternative solutions to manage the problem of a knee meniscus tear, an injury to tissue in one’s knee joints, the IIT-G said in a release.

“We have developed regenerative treatment approaches that would be tailored for the patient and help in rapid healing meniscus tears or replacing parts of the damaged tissue,” Professor Biman B Mandal, department of biosciences and bioengineering, IIT-G, said.

Trauma to the knee meniscus, a cushioning tissue in the knee joint, is a common yet complex problem. A tear in the tissue can make it difficult to walk, run or perform daily activities.

The 3 hydrogels

The IIT-G team has created three hydrogel formulations that are blends of silk fibroin and other polymers, which can be used by doctors in clinics, to treat the meniscus injury.

These components, especially silk, are well known for their strength, bioactivity and flexibility. They are also cost-effective compared to other materials such as commercially available polyurethane and collagen meniscus implants, the release said.

Out of the three, one is an injectable hydrogel, which can be injected in a minimally invasive manner directly into the meniscus site to expedite the healing of smaller injuries.

For treating larger full thickness complex meniscus tissue injuries, the researchers have created two 3D bio-printable inks that can be 3D printed into implants.

In the two bioink formulations, one carries commercially available growth factor loaded microspheres, the second carries patient derived factors which are released in a sustained manner aiding faster meniscus healing. Both formulations can be 3D printed into a partial or full sized meniscus and used for healing large portions of the meniscus.

3D printing, or bioprinting, has recently emerged as a popular futuristic method for tissue engineering. Here, the implant is customized as per the patient’s requirements.

The research aims to provide a more personalised and effective treatment for meniscus injuries, potentially improving the quality of life for millions of people.

The developments signal a significant advancement, providing solutions custom-made for each patient and could also potentially prevent future complications such as osteoarthritis.

The three approaches have been published in three manuscripts in international journals Applied Materials Today and Advanced Biology, co-authored by Mandal and his team of research scholars — Ashutosh Bandyopadhyay, Baishali Ghibhela, and Sayanti Shome and Dr Debajyoti Pal, Dr Samsamul Hoque and Professor Samit K Nandi from the University of Animal and Fishery Sciences.

source/content: moneycontrol.com (headline edited)

INTERNATIONAL: PHOTOGRAPHY AWARD WINNER: How Paris-based, Kolkata’s Neha Ganeriwal Captured ‘Fedal’ & Won in the Independent Photograper Category at the Prestigious ‘2023 World Sports Photography Awards’

Neha recalls the Rafa-Roger day that changed her life, how the same ‘boys’ gave her the best photo of her career, and more.

When Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal held hands at the end of the last competitive match of the former’s career at the 2022 Laver Cup, tears flowed. First, from the eyes of the two tennis GOATs at London’s O2 arena. And then, from millions of their admirers around the world. However, were it not for one Neha Ganeriwal, many would never have witnessed that iconic moment. It was Neha, originally from Kolkata’s Hindustan Park but currently based in Paris, who snapped ‘Fedal’ at their most human, providing one of the most enduring sports images of 2022.

Almost a year later, that image has been adjudged as the winner (out of more than 800 submissions) in the Independent Photographer category of the 2023 World Sports Photography Awards, sponsored by IMAGO, which is the largest and most prestigious competition of its kind. Additionally, two other photos taken by Neha (as well as the ‘Fedal’ one) at the aforementioned Laver Cup finished as finalists in the tennis category of the awards.

Days after her victory, Neha, 42, spoke to My Kolkata, via a video call connecting a wet Kolkata and an equally drenched Paris, reflecting on the ‘Fedal’ image, her journey, her most memorable clicks and more. Edited excerpts from the conversation follow.

My Kolkata: Congratulations on your win! Has the achievement sunk in yet?

Neha Ganeriwal: It’s been overwhelming! I was on vacation when I got the news. It was my first time applying to any award, so I couldn’t have been happier. It’s been a barrage of congratulatory messages since I found out on email (from the sponsors and organisers) that I had won, sometime in the middle of August. What makes me even more delighted is that these are the only dedicated sports photography awards in the world.

‘I had blurry vision because of my tears and was quite worried about the photo’

The image that won you the prize is one of the most moving and shared sports photos of the past year. Talk us through how you captured it.

Before I’m a photographer, I’m a tennis fan. And I was bawling at the time, it was so emotional! I had blurry vision because of my tears and was quite worried about the photo. I was certain that the camera had shaken. The lighting wasn’t great, either, and we were all just clicking away… Federer had just given a speech and he came to sit down. Then a singer took centrestage. A lot of people went towards her, but, for some reason, I kept tracking Federer. He sat down, and just for a split second, he happened to reach for Nadal, for comfort, first touching Nadal’s thigh and then his hand. That’s when I clicked. I had no idea how the results were until I downloaded my work on my laptop. And then, of course, the image went viral. There were two or three photographers who got a similar shot, but depending on which part of the world you were in, you got to see my image.

Why did you choose to submit the photo in black and white?

The actual image has a lot of blue. The background is sort of purple-ish and there’s a bit of white, too. There’s a lot of colour and that distracts from the emotion of the moment. I usually prefer black and white photography, as that helps to train the eye and take it to whatever you want by cutting out all the distractions. That’s why I went for monochrome and I think that’s also why it won.

You named the photo as “Boys don’t cry”. It seems ironic at two levels. First, because the subjects in the photo are actually crying. Second, because there is a suggestion that boys become men when they are comfortable displaying their emotions openly. Would that be a reasonable reading of your caption?

Exactly, that’s right. There’s also a third point to it. There’s this whole myth that men can’t be “weak” or show emotions. Nobody would use the adjective “weak” for Nadal, though. There’s probably no fiercer athlete than him on the tennis court. But there he was, in tears, underlining how even the greatest are also human beings with emotions, perhaps even more so than the rest of us. And there’s nothing weak about that.

‘I know that both Federer and Nadal have seen the photo’

Do you know if Federer and/or Nadal saw your photo? Did any of them reach out or speak to you about it?

I know that both Federer and Nadal have seen the photo. I haven’t met Federer since, but I hope to hear from him in person soon, possibly at some event later this year. I’m actually working on a photo book, combining other unreleased photos, which I’d like to present to Federer. As for Nadal, I met him in November and got him to sign a copy of the photo. We had a little chat about it and he was a bit embarrassed about it all!

‘That one day in Madrid had changed my life… I knew nothing about photography but jumped right into the deep end’

Going back in time, how did your journey as a sports photographer begin? And what did meeting Federer and Nadal (those boys, again!) a decade ago have to do with it?

The photo was a full circle moment for me. I was born and brought up in Hindustan Park in Kolkata. I went to La Martiniere for my schooling and then studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), before completing my master’s in fashion designing in Milan. A personal tragedy made me settle in Europe about 15 years ago. But I wasn’t working in sports at all. I was a professional fashion designer living the corporate life. Everything was good, but I felt that something was missing. I was climbing the ladder that we’re told to climb, but I never felt that it was mine to climb. I had always been a sports fan. Growing up, I used to go to Ordnance Club (in Kolkata) to play tennis with my father, was in my school swimming team and used to love watching Michael Schumacher in his Ferrari.

Exactly a decade ago, the Rafa Nadal Foundation was having an event in Madrid and I somehow managed to get a pass for that. I almost didn’t go because my resources were limited. But I finally took the plunge, not knowing what to expect. When Federer and Nadal entered the room, they shook hands with absolutely everyone. It was a stark contrast to the glamour industry I was used to, where everyone was inaccessible and god-like. We spent the entire day with the two of them. There was a press conference, a session with kids, a match and a gala. Just seeing the energy and just how the two of them were, I went back to being a sports lover, in between the emotional trauma that was going on for me personally.

I came back thinking that I have to find a way to be a part of that sporting world. So, I got an extra job to pay for a camera, acquired skills and read like a mad woman! I knew nothing about photography but jumped right into the deep end. That one day in Madrid had changed my life. I had found what my soul really wanted, to be around brilliant but normal, wonderful human beings.

What have been some of your other most memorable photos till date?

Capturing Federer winning his 10th Swiss Indoors Basel title (in October 2019) was special. He had started out over there as a ballboy and that was the last time he was going to be playing there. That was really emotional, Federer was crying again. Nadal winning his 10th Roland Garros (in 2017) would be up there, too. Nobody expected him to win that one, but he did. I got a special photo between him and Toni [Nadal] back then.

n football, there was the Euro 2016 final, when Portugal beat France, and Ronaldo was lapping it all up. He was injured and substituted, and there were some really great shots of him stepping up as an additional manager. And, of course, Messi was here [in Paris] for the last two years, which produced some nice shots of him along with Kylian Mbappe and Neymar. Just the sheer starpower in the same frame was special.

Of all the great athletes you have been around and photographed, who has surprised you the most?

Zlatan Ibrahimovic was really interesting! He has this aura of arrogance, but that’s a persona for the camera. He’s the nicest guy you can meet. Of course, he can get annoyed if you poke him or rub him the wrong way, but he’s generally super nice.

‘I can tell which side Mbappe is going to run after he scores a goal or when Djokovic is going to smash his racket’

Given you predominantly cover tennis and football across Europe, what are the different challenges concerned with each sport? Both institutionally and technically.

In terms of institutional challenges, breaking in wasn’t easy. I had to create my own path. When I started, the internet wasn’t the way it is now. Getting in touch with press managers and press officers and getting accredited to FIFA or UEFA was complicated. I had to learn multiple languages, including Italian and French. All of that took time.

The technical aspect took a lot of education and learning, most of which happened on the pitch or the court. Which place to be in, where the players’ teams are and all that. After some experience, you know exactly what the athletes are going to do. For instance, I can tell which side Mbappe is going to run after he scores a goal or when [Novak] Djokovic is going to smash his racket in frustration and yell at his team. There are also the technical fundamentals, such as shutter speed, but that’s about skill acquisition. About putting your ego aside and learning. At the same time, hard as the challenges have been, my colleagues have been amazing and have always answered my questions.

On the ground during match days, tennis gives you more space to move around. I go for close-ups when in doubt. The top positions are always free in tennis. In football, movement is more limited. I can’t always choose my position. Mentally, I make a list of the players I need to photograph. Then, I choose my end and usually go for the one where the home fans are sitting, as it makes for a better background. Then there are the lenses, which also affect the images. Generally, I have less options for lenses when I’m travelling farther.

‘Learning from Nadal, at no point did I give up’

Sports photography still remains a male domain for the most part. How much of your experience so far has been shaped by your gender?

Whenever I walk into those photographers’ rooms, more for football than tennis, I’m usually the only person of colour, often the only woman, too. European football is completely male-dominated. It wasn’t easy when I started, but I’ve become accustomed to it now. Initially, I didn’t want to come across as brash. At the same time, I wanted to be taken seriously. To have people treat me with respect and not dismiss me was challenging. However, at no point was I completely disillusioned. Learning from Nadal, at no point did I give up.

‘I’d love to be a part of some professional event in Kolkata’

Coming to your Kolkata connection, how often do you come back? What are your favourite things to do in the city?

I spent the first 25 years of my life in Kolkata. My parents are still there, so I try to come back every six months. It’s just about downtime for me. I love the street food, like the phuchka and the papdi chaat near Lake Kalibari. Strangely, I haven’t shot anything in Kolkata yet. I’d love to be a part of some professional event in the city, particularly given how big football is back home.

‘My dream is to photograph an Indian winning an Olympic medal, ideally gold!’

What are you most looking forward to in terms of upcoming events? Is there a dream shot that you are still chasing?

I’m really looking forward to next year’s Olympic Games (in Paris). My dream is to photograph an Indian winning an Olympic medal, ideally gold! Then, I’ll probably have to choose between the Euros (in Germany) and the Copa America (in the US). I do want to click Messi with a trophy, since I couldn’t do the World Cup (in Qatar) last year.

‘Do what you do for the right reasons, for your reasons’

Lastly, what would your advice be to budding photographers, especially those wanting to document sports?

No matter what you do, it’s going to be hard, so it’s much better to figure out what it is that you’re willing to suffer for. Do what you do for the right reasons, for your reasons.

Moreover, sports mirror life. There’s no instant gratification, no substitute for consistency. It’s the small successes that lead to the big triumphs. Today, I’m talking about my award, but nobody apart from me has seen those days when all I wanted to do was stay in bed. But I pushed myself, went out in the rain and stood there for four hours. I did it because I love it. As Nadal has taught the world, show up everyday and do the basics. Think of the number of matches he has won simply because he refused to go away. If you do that, things eventually fall into place.

source/content: telegraphindia.com / my-kolkata (headline edited)